Night at the Museum: A Look through the Louvre
There is usually at least one day of the week where Louvre opening hours extend; at the moment it appears to be open until 9:45 p.m. on Fridays. That is right in the middle of Parisian dinner hours, and it is a wonderful time to meander through the capacious and ornate halls in the quiet amongst much fewer people than you’ll find in the morning and afternoon hours. I went one May evening from about 7:30-9 p.m., and it was my most memorable visit.
Bluebells
As the winter months inched toward spring, I noticed the people around me keeping time with the season by the flowers that slowly appeared, and they taught me to do the same. In February I saw my first snowdrop. By March the crocuses were popping up all golden and purple. The daffodils arrived in April, and the golden rapeseed fields were glowing in the sun by May. June brought buttercups and wild garlic, along with primroses in the hedges. I became so in tune with the rhythm of the flowers during my three years in North Yorkshire. But somehow, during that first spring, I missed out on hearing about the bluebells.
Paris Bookshop Tour
Most visitors to Paris find their way to the historic English-language bookshop, Shakespeare and Company, but this familiar landmark across from Notre Dame is only the first stop on my Paris Bookshop Tour.
Four Books Featuring Expats in Paris
Last year I made a list of some of my favorite books set in Paris, and today I’m recommending four more books that capture some aspect of Paris—food, diplomacy, neighborhoods—through the eyes of the expat or traveler.
MusÉE Rodin
The Musée Rodin in Paris is home to one of the most recognized sculptures in the world, Le Penseur, or The Thinker as I grew up calling it. It was one of the most thrilling pieces of art for me to see in person while living in Paris; I returned to the garden on multiple occasions. With its long tree-lined walks, outdoor sculptures, and roses in the spring, it’s a pleasant place to spend an hour strolling or meeting a friend for coffee in the café.
Driving From Paris To Normandy and Brittany
There are many fun weekend trips worth making into Normandy or Brittany when you’re in Paris, and a trip to see the medieval wonder of Le Mont Saint-Michel is the foundation of a March road trip I took in 2019. In three days, my family and a friend saw three unique places: Saint Céneri-le-Gérei, Mont Saint-Michel, and Saint-Malo.
Richard the Lionheart, Castles, and Limoges
Last January I went to stay at a friend’s house in the Dordogne, and on the drive down noticed a sign for the Route de Richard Coeur de Lion. I was immediately intrigued, and this bit of history—along with a desire to check out Limoges porcelain—became the basis for my birthday outing a few days later.
Château de Chambord
Construction began on the château in the early 1500s at the order of King François I who chose the salamander as his symbol, and we see this slithering amphibian represented all throughout the castle. My favorite features are the gorgeous windows that let in so much light, and I’m looking forward to seeing the “double helix” staircase inspired by the designs of Leonardo da Vinci.
Normandy American Cemetery
Visiting the sites of the D-Day landings in Normandy is a somber and moving experience, as is visiting The American Cemetery there. The rows of white marble crosses are distinctive and familiar even to first-time visitors, each one representing a life given to liberate France and the rest of Europe from Nazi control.
Suresnes American Cemetery and Memorial
Suresnes American Cemetery and Memorial is located just outside of Paris and is a beautiful and moving place to visit. Over 1,500 Americans who served in World War I rest on the green hillside of Mont-Valérien as well as 23 unknown dead from World War II.
10 Books Set in Paris
There are so many different books you could read in preparation for a trip to Paris. I was a little surprised that most of my recent favorites are memoir/biography and non-fiction, but this list also has four novels set in the City of Lights.
Cherry Blossoms at Parc de Sceaux
If you take the RER B just south of Paris in the month of April, you’ll discover the most amazing grove of cherry trees in Parc de Sceaux, planted in perfectly-formed French straight lines.
Marie Antoinette’s Hamlet at Versailles
Beyond the elegant Château de Versailles and the formal gardens you’ll find the Estate of Trianon with its two smaller palaces and a hamlet constructed at the wish of Marie Antoinette to resemble a rural French village.
The Petit Trianon’s English and French Gardens at Versailles
This week I’m taking you on a little journey to some of the farthest corners of the nearly 2,000 acre estate of Versailles. If it’s your first visit, then of course you want to explore the palace and the gardens along the grand canal first, but if it’s your second visit or you have more time and good walking shoes, I highly recommend heading for the Trianon Estate, which consists of two smaller palaces, English and French gardens, and the Hamlet of Marie Antoinette complete with farm animals.
A Novel Pairing: A 20th Century WWII Story & 19th Century Science Fiction Adventure
Marie-Laure’s enjoyment and immersion in the fantastical underwater world created by Jules Verne permeates Doerr’s book, and diving into it directly after All the Light We Cannot See has been a good choice for me.
An Eiffel Tower Snow Day
When I look up and see the Eiffel Tower, one of the most iconic landmarks in the world, I say inwardly every time, "I'm in Paris."
Saint-Malo
People have lived in Saint Malo since the 1st century B.C., giving it an extremely storied history of monasteries, pirates, and explorers. Whatever story brings you to this port city, there’s much to discover.
Jardin des Plantes
Some might say this is the most magical time of year to visit Paris: they would probably be right. I’ve never seen such exquisite and perfectly formed cherry blossoms as I have in the Jardins des Plantes.